We’ve spent the last two days hanging out in Freshwater Bay, just paddling in the afternoon in the waters close by. Yesterday we went into the channel between Swanson Island and the next island to the south.There are some little islets in the channel and the water is shallow between them, so good viewing of fish schooling in the kelp forests and urchins on the sea floor. Today we went up the outside of Swanson, hoping orca would come down from Bold Head (we’d heard reports that they were up there) but no luck on that front. There are lots of orca around, but none have ventured close to where we’re anchored. Yesterday a humpback was whacking his tale on the water repeatedly—like about twenty times—on the other side of Blackfish Sound and we’ve heard breaches in the distance. The humpback came back into Freshwater Bay again last night after dark, circled around and out again. We’re really enjoying being here, listening to the whale watch boats and the fishermen on the radio, and watching all the traffic on Blackfish Sound. The air feels fresh and clean and the temperature is lovely—not cold, but not too hot.
Yesterday two women came into Freshwater Bay in a little boat, landed on the beach and offloaded a bunch of gear, including a weed whacker—yikes, our favourite anchorage is being invaded! Ron went in to find out what’s up and found out that one of them has leased the property and is hoping to develop on a small scale, renting out the existing tent platforms on the property to kayakers and developing a garden at the old homestead site. We both went in again this morning and had a yarn with them (I’m reading Upcoast Summers which is a collection of journal entries written by Francis Barrow during cruises he and his wife made from 1933 to 1941. He’s always having a yarn with people who live up the coast, and I like that term!). Anyway, her plans seem quite vague at this point, so we’ll see how things progress. There’s no house here at the moment, so I’m not sure where she’s planning to live. Now that we’ve had a visit with her we’ll probably feel OK about anchoring here even if she is here.